My friend Blake recently compiled a list of new–unpublished in guidebooks–routes in the Cascades. I’ve copied it here to spread the word. Of the climbs on the list, I’ve established only three of them…but hope to climb many of the rest as time progresses.

Enjoy and get motivated!

All photos below are not mine and belong to their respective owners.

The mountains between Seattle, Spokane, and Vancouver have seen prodigious activity in the last few years, and many of the new routes are amazing. The question is: will anyone climb them, or will they fade into obscurity?

Here’s a listing of new routes, with links to more info. These are all un-published (or “under-published”) but many would be amazing climbs if you’re looking for greater challenges or if you have done all the guidebook climbs that perk your interest. If or when some of these routes get traffic, they could become the modern classics of the range, and some of the hardest or best alpine climbs in the contiguous US! Let me know which ones I forgot and I’ll add them in. There are definitely many on this list that I can’t wait to try.

Presence of stars is totally subjective. I rated only the routes I had done. Absence of any stars means I have not done the climb. ***=World Class, **= Great, put it on the list! *=OK

BC, The Picket Ranges, and Cascades North of Hwy 20

Blake Herrington FAing on Castle Peak’s Herrington/Hirst

Les CornesSpringbok Arete, Sprung Cocks Erect, Voodoo Child ***

Serendipity PeakBack of Beyond Buttress III 5.10b

Rexford’s False SummitSouth Pillar III 5.11

Castle Peak Herrington/Hirst (middle buttress of North Face) IV 5.10d**
Castle PeakSod-On-Me III+ 5.10

Ampitheater Mountain North FacePilgrimage to Mecca II+ 5.9 **
Ampitheater Mountain North FaceUnauthorized Squirrel II+ 5.10a *
Ampitheater Mountain N. FaceMiddle Finger Buttress Left II+ .10c**
Macabre PeakSouth (South) Buttress III 5.11a

Mt. Shuksan
NW Arayete III 5.9 **

Green Creek Wall (E. Ridge of South Twin Sister)
The Mythic Wall III 5.10a**
Green Creek Wall Green Creek Arete II 5.6
Green Creek WallEvil Twin Arete III 5.9*

Mt. Fury’s West Summit
Mongo Ridge VI 5.10

Specter PeakThe Haunted Wall IV 5.9

Middle ChallengerSouth Ridge III 5.7
West ChallengerEast Ridge III 5.9
Poltergeist Pinnacle (sub -peak of Challenger) – East Face III 5.9 R/X

SE Mox (Lemolo Peak) NE Buttress / After Hours V 5.10-
SE Mox’s East Face Devil’s Club V+ 5.9 A2

The Blob
Plan 9 III or IV 5.10

East McMillan Spire
Come over to the Dark Side (NE Buttress) V 5.10-

Mt. Triumph
SW Rib III 5.8

Southern Pickets TraverseVI 5.10+
Northern Pickets TraverseVI 5.7 Alternate Link

Washington Pass Area

David Trippett belays new terrain on The Silver Horn Spire Playin not Sprayin

Tower MountainSE Ridge III 5.10b **

Cutthroat PeakCommunity Service Project 5.8 x

Hinkhouse PeakNW Ridge III 5.8*

Billygoat Buttress of Pk. 6,978′ (South of Cutthroat Lake Trailhead) – Perfect Crime III 5.9*
Billygoat Buttress Easy Getaway III 5.10a**

The SnoutDeviated SeptumII 5.10b*
The Snout Smelling Salts II 5.10d **

Vasiliki RidgeCarlo Rossi Memorial Tower III 5.10d x

Pernod Spire
Indirect West Face III 5.10

Pernod Spire Direct West Face III 5.10+

Burgundy SpireAction Potential (East Face) III 5.10

Burgundy Spire Ultramega OK (East Face) III 5.10c AO

Silver Star sub-summit (Whine Spire) – Gato Negro IV 5.10b**
Silver Star Stellar Eclipse III+ 5.11a

Silver Horn (Spire on E. Ridge of Silver Star) – The Chalice III 5.10a**
Silver Horn Playin not Sprayin III 5.10c**

Varden Creek Spire (On E. Ridge of Silver Star) – North Arete III 5.9Alternate Link

Le Petit ChevalSpontaneity Arete II+ 5.7*
Le Petit ChevalPaul Revere II+ 5.9+

Big KangarooKearney/Thomas Free Ascent – III 5.11a

Concord Tower –
West Face II 5.9*

South Early Winter Spire – Mojo Rising III 5.11 A1
South Early Winter SpireThe Passenger IV- 5.11c/d***
South Early Winter Spire – Cascade Mall (Windham/Cotman)
South Early Winter SpireThe Hitchhiker IV 5.11b or 5.10d A1DescriptionRoute Photo

North Early Winter SpirePangaea – ?? 5.12a – Forrest Murphy and Doug Ingersoll

The Middle North Cascades

Gordy Skoog in his element, on the first climb of Mt. Buckner’s Southeast Ridge

Mt. LoganNW Ridge V 5.8

Johannesburg Mountain CK Route IV 5.10b AI3

Mt. GoodeMegalodon Ridge IV+ 5.10b**

Mt. Buckner
Complete SE Ridge IV 5.8*

Distal Phalanx (Mantis Peak) – North Arete IV 5.10 AO

Mt. Formidable Direct NE Buttress III+ 5.9
Mt. Formidable East Ridge IV 5.7
Mt. Formidable – NE Face Direct III+ 5.6

Repulse Peak –
North Face (No link, reported as a good adventure, not too hard or scary)

Dome Peak’s SW Summit
SE Face ‘Gran Torino’ IV 5.9

Tupshin Peak
East Ridge III+ 5.7*

Bonanza Peak NW Ridge via Dark Peak V 5.8**
Bonanza PeakThree Summits Traverse V 5.8

Star Peak
(Sawtooth Wilderness Area) – NW Ridge III 5.7

Courtney Peak
North Face III 5.10

Sloan Peak – Fire on the Mountain (SW Face) III+ 5.10**
Sloan Peak SE Ridge II+ 5.10a

Roan WallCenter Stage III 5.11a***Link to approach detail, map, and Topo
Roan Wall – Stage Right III 5.10b

Salish PeakFlight of the Falcon III 5.10c (5.9 AO)**

Tang Tower – Brush Humper’s Delight III 5.10a
Tang Tower Sine Your Pitty III 5.8+

Big Four Tower – Direct North Face IV 5.10a

The Gunsight Group


Dan Hilden on the East Face of Gunsight

All Four SummitsComplete North->South Traverse ‘Gunrunner’ IV 5.10**

North GunsightWest Face Free III 5.11+***

Middle Gunsight East Face III 5.10d***

South Gunsight East Face ‘Accidental Discharge’ II 5.10*
South Gunsight South Ridge II 5.8**
South GunsightWest Face III 5.9

Index Upper Town Wall
Alpine, no. World-Class and unpublished? Definitely.


Heaven’s Gate III- 5.11b***

Wildest Dreams III 5.12b

Golden Road III 5.11d***

The Enchantments

Sol Wertkin belays Jens Holsten FFA of Dragons of Eden – Dragontail

Mount StuartGorillas in the Mist IV+ 5.11a***

Sherpa PeakRilikpa III 5.7

D’artanian Spire
(Temple Ridge Area) – South Face III 5.10+ C1

Colchuck Balanced Rock
The Tempest Wall IV 5.9 C2 or ~5.12c***
Colchuck Balanced Rock
The Scoop III 5.11c**

Enchantment Peak Acid Baby III 5.10d**

Prusik Peak Der Sportsman III 5.11c/d***
Prusik Peak Solid Gold II+ 5.10d**
Prusik PeakPrayer for a Friend III 5.12- C1

Dragontail PeakDragons of Eden IV+ 5.12a (5.10 Ao)**
Dragontail Peak20-Sided Dihedral IV 5.10 Ao (This begins just right of ‘Dragons of Eden’ and crosses left @ ~P3, meeting the NE Buttress 60′ to the left of DOE.)
Dragontail PeakDragon Scar IV 5.11a R
Dragontail PeakDer Dihedral IV 5.10b

Boola Boola Buttress
Black Velvet III 5.10c

Winter or Spring Ice and Snow Routes

Colin Haley on Chiwawa’s Intravenous route

Snoqualmie Peak – Pineapple Express IV WI3+ M6 5.8

Mt. OutramGhost Passenger III WI3

Mt. Brice –
Graveyard Shift IV AI3


Twin Needles –
Thread of Ice III – Snow


Chiwawa Mountain –
Intravenous IV WI4 M6

Silver Star Mountain – West Face Central Couloir III AI2 M4

Pyramid Mountain – NW Face ‘It Aint Over Mother Fuckers’ IV M4

Summit Chief – Alpine Chicken IV AI4+ 5.8 R
Summit Chief –
North Face III AI3

Three Fingers –
NE Face IV WI4+ M3

Mt. Stuart – Lara Kellog Memorial Route IV WI6 AO

Hall Peak – NW Face III 5.6 WI3

White Chuck – East Face Couloir WI3 5.8 R

Abiel Peak –
Spindrift Daze III AI3+
Abiel Peak
It’s Al-Der III AI4
Abiel Peak –
North Face Direct III WI4

Snow Creek Wall – Swing and a Prayer IV WI5 M6 R

Lake 22 Headwall – NW Chutes IV AI4

Mt. Index – West Face ‘Murphy’s Law’ V AI3 M4

Whitehorse Mountain – East Face III+ AI4

One Response to “New Routes in the Northwest”

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