My good friend Chris just moved back to the Pacific Northwest after a prolonged work relocation to the alpine-free wasteland some call Phoenix. I welcomed him home (and back to the alpine) with a nice three day trip up Mt. Shuksan via the Hanging Glacier. I can’t recommend the route enough and suggest it as an alternative to other “classic” routes on the mountain. We approached via the Fisher Chimneys, then dropped down the White Salmon Glacier about 1000′, and then crossed the NW Rib route to gain the Hanging Glacier. The climb itself features a nice mix of glacier travel, ice climbing up to 65 degrees (or steeper if you want), and some 5.6 rock on the east ridge of the summit pyramid. A nice little alpine package, perfect to get Chris psyched on the Pacific Northwest again!
The 1939 Route (Hanging Glacier) of Mt. Shuksan.
Chris on the approach above the Lower Curtis Glacier
Climbing up Winnie’s Slide to our bivy site
Time to call the special lady.
Chris follows a pitch on the Hanging Glacier.
On an outcrop mid-route. Shuksan Arm is in the distance.
Some steep ice for the fun of it.
Chris bypassing a large crevasse high on the route.
Taking in the view after reaching the Crystal Glacier.
Near the summit. Canada in the distance.