Over the weekend we had some unseasonably warm weather with high temperatures almost reaching 60 degrees both days–that sure sounds like rock climbing weather! Marc and I headed south to the Shawangunks, a.k.a. The Gunks, of New York for two days of fine climbing on excellent rock. The Gunks are perhaps the only place where almost every pitch climbs through a roof, even 5.5 pitches! It takes a bit of getting used to, but once adjusted to the style of climbing it becomes really enjoyable.

While it did rain a little each afternoon, causing the masses to head home, each day was mostly full of bluebird skies and perfect climbing temps. All told, we did a total of ten routes between 5.5 and 5.10, racking up fifteen pitches of sweet trad climbing. My thoughts about the Gunks were distilled to this — “sure the moves are only 5.8, but it has a 5.10 pump!”

Me leading Shockley’s Ceiling, 5.6+! Marc’s photo.

Pulling the crux move on Shockley’s. Marc’s photo.

Marc at the spacious belay of High Exposure

Marc finishes off the steep 5.6 second pitch of High E.