When most people hear the word Rumney they think of well bolted sport climbs like Wiamea or The Fly. Apparently the cliffs are also draped in a variety of ice lines for most of the winter. News to me!

We, AAI guide Tom Kirby and local photographer Nick Goldsmith, checked out a couple classics on Thursday. Starting with what seems to be classic New Hampshire winter morning weather we gathered in the parking lot in 5 degree temperatures and a sustained 10mph breeze… cold! So we were off to find sheltered, but sunny classic lines. We started on “Selsun Blue,” a nice WI4 on the Main Cliff after about a 10 minute approach. Surprisingly the ice was perfectly plastic and our hands didn’t even go numb.


Tom tops out on Selsun Blue

Nick really wanted to take a look at the best line around, “Geographic Factor,” so up we went for half an hour of deep snow slogging to the route. Fortunately the trail was partially established, sparing our energy for the tremendous 100′ WI5 pillar spilling out of a basalt dike high on the hillside.

The Geographic Factor. Classic!
Going for the send!


Tom follows Geographic Factor.

Tom belaying Nick up.

A great day at a great, year-round crag! Now I just have to go back and clip some bolts!