Posts from the ‘Rock Climbing’ category

This morning we stopped for a quick run up one of Central Arizona’s classic climbs, The Razor’s Edge (II, 5.6R) on The Hand.  Tucked into the hillside above Lost Dutchman State Park on the edge of the Superstition Mountains (just east of Phoenix), The Hand is only about an hour from the parking lot.  We were intrigued by other spires and buttresses that dotted the hillside as we got closer, but we stuck to our plans for The Hand.

The Hand on the approach. The Razor’s Edge climbs the right skyline.

The route is climbed in two (or three) pitches, each of which have eye opening exposure and committing climbing.  Be warned that the protection is mostly inadequate (old bolts have not been replaced due to a bolting ban) and there was an exceptionally bad piton low on the route which made me laugh as I clipped it while looking at a 50′ or longer potential fall. Don’t blow it!

At the belay on Chicken Ledge. So narrow one has to straddle the crest!

Nearing the summit of The Razor’s Edge

We took in the view for a few minutes from the summit before preparing to descend.  One double rope rappel took us back to our packs at the base and a sigh of relief.  What a climb!

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I had the chance to guide the remote and classic Southwest Buttress of Dorado Needle a couple weeks ago during the AMGA Alpine Guides Exam.  I’ll do a full blog post about the exam soon, but here’s a shot of Über-examiner Marc Chauvin cruising up the lower portion of the route!

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2010 was the year of Red Rock Canyon National Conservation area for me.  Between February and October, I spent a total of almost three months climbing in its magnificent canyons and crags.  In the spring, when the summits were still snow covered and canyon’s creeks were flowing high, I was training for, then taking, the AMGA Rock Guide Course.  We did some excellent climbing including Olive Oil (III, 5.7), Dream of Wild Turkeys (III, 5.10a), Nightcrawler (II, 5.10c), The Walker Spur (II, 5.10b), and the full Geronimo (III+, 5.8).

Mike cruisin' up Olive Oil

Mike cruisin’ up Olive Oil

Art climbing on The Walker Spur

Art climbing The Walker Spur

The crux pitch of Nightcrawler

The crux pitch of Nightcrawler

In the warm and sweaty days of fall, I got in a little more training before taking my AMGA Rock Guide exam.  My friend and AAI co-worker Danny Uhlmann was also taking the exam and we completed a number of excellent climbs prior to its start.  We made the most of our prep time, climbing Risky Business into Dark Shadows (III+, 5.10c R) in Pine Creek Canyon, Rock Warrior in Black Velvet Canyon (III, 5.10b R), Community Pillar (III, 5.8) in Pine Creek, Gin Ricky (I, 5.10c) and Birthday Party (II, 5.6) in First Creek Canyon, and Solar Slab to Eagle Dance (IV, 5.10) in Oak Creek Canyon.

Danny find the first bolt on The Rock Warrior

Danny at the first bolt on Rock Warrior (60′ up!)

Hurting from the hanging belays of Rock Warrior.

Loving the belays of Rock Warrior.  The first five belays are all fully hanging.

During the exam, we climbed some more classic routes including Beulah’s Book to Arch Enemy (III, 5.9) in Oak Creek, cragging at the Trophy Wall/Wall of Confusion, Myster Z (III, 5.7) to Armatron (II, 5.9) in Juniper Canyon, The Gobbler to Dream of Wild Turkeys in Black Velvet Canyon (III+, 5.10), and There and Back Again (II, 5.8) to Eagle Dance (IV, 5.10c) in Oak Creek Canyon.

Great edge climbing on Dream of Wild Turkeys

Great edge climbing on Dream of Wild Turkeys

Ron aiding the bolt ladder of Eagle Dance

Ron finishing up the Eagle Dance bolt ladder.

I am proud to announce that I passed my exam with excellent marks.  I am available for guiding in Red Rock Canyon through the American Alpine Institute, an authorized concessionaire, from September to May each year.

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So Noelle and I have finally arrived in Joshua Tree National Park.  We had a great day climbing yesterday with Ian around Hidden Valley Campground and in the Real Hidden Valley.  There’s a storm rolling through today, so it’s a forced rest day, but we needed a little more time to get the RV all set, so the day hasn’t been a total loss.  Here are a few photos…more to come soon!

Camping in style in Hidden Valley Campground

Racking up below Intersection Rock

Leading Sexy Grandma (5.9)

Noelle on Lady Fingers (5.10b)

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Over the weekend we had some unseasonably warm weather with high temperatures almost reaching 60 degrees both days–that sure sounds like rock climbing weather! Marc and I headed south to the Shawangunks, a.k.a. The Gunks, of New York for two days of fine climbing on excellent rock. The Gunks are perhaps the only place where almost every pitch climbs through a roof, even 5.5 pitches! It takes a bit of getting used to, but once adjusted to the style of climbing it becomes really enjoyable.

While it did rain a little each afternoon, causing the masses to head home, each day was mostly full of bluebird skies and perfect climbing temps. All told, we did a total of ten routes between 5.5 and 5.10, racking up fifteen pitches of sweet trad climbing. My thoughts about the Gunks were distilled to this — “sure the moves are only 5.8, but it has a 5.10 pump!”

Me leading Shockley’s Ceiling, 5.6+! Marc’s photo.

Pulling the crux move on Shockley’s. Marc’s photo.

Marc at the spacious belay of High Exposure

Marc finishes off the steep 5.6 second pitch of High E.

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