The Bugaboo Range is nestled in the Interior Ranges of British Columbia, a few hours north of Spokane, Washington. It is home to an incredible amount of alpine rock climbing and a handful of snow/ice routes, and as such, the “Bugs” should be on every climber’s to-do list. While many climbers have heard stories of an epic approach and terrible weather, neither are really true. The approach does require an honest effort of 4-6 hours, climbing about 2500′ over about three miles on an excellent trail and ladder (yes, ladder) system. Once in the alpine, the approaches to climbs are relatively short, ranging from 15 minutes to two hours on average.
Like all alpine climbing venues, the Bugaboos do suffer from inclement weather. Climbing in the peak season (late June – early September) provides the best chance for blue sky days. In the event of less than ideal conditions, many objectives near the Applebee Dome campsite are somewhat sheltered from the weather. Spending a relaxing afternoon in the famous Conrad Kain hut is also a fantastic plan if the weather turns absolutely horrid.
Whether you like long, technical rock routes, moderate scrambles, or aiding up splitter granite cracks the Bugaboos offer something for everyone. Contact me to more information about climbing in the Bugs.
Descending Bugaboo Spire. Snowpatch Spire is the prominent tower in the middle of the frame.
Pitch two of Bugaboo Spire's classic Northeast Ridge (5.8, 18 pitches)
Camping at Applebee Dome. Crescent Spire in the background.
Great climbing on the West Ridge of Pigeon Spire (5.4).
